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Denim Wall / December no.1

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It's no secret by now that we have one of the largest denim collections in the world. The denim wall located in our NYC store showcases just a small sample of the some-800 denims that have passed through our Atelier. Below are 3 that we'd like to call out specifically this month. Denim descriptions are written by 3x1 Founder, Scott.





xx473, Kaihara, Japan

This 12.5 oz mid-weight denim is a perfect year round black denim. Woven an a Toyoda G9 shuttle loom, using black yarns in both warp and weft. I love this double black selvedge because it’s designed for comfort and it looks slimming. It’s got a solid red + white selvedge ID, which is pretty traditional. The black, reactive dyed yarns will start to show age in a matter of months, and the subtle grey tones that show thru highlight the xx473’s beautiful slub character. For those of you whom love the xx133, this is like finding her stretch sibling.

xx4, Cone Mills White Oak, USA

The Cone corporation is turning 125 years old this year, which is reason enough to celebrate, but when I’m thinking about one of the best Cone denims ever, I almost immediately think about their xx4 13 oz. double ring-spun, 100% Cotton, red dotted selvedge. The xx4 warp size holds a ton of indigo (which means lots of beautiful saturation) and it’s got a relatively small yarn size in the weft, so there’s less grin thru and more gorgeous color. The xx4 weights in at 13 oz, which is the perfect 3-4 season weight. It’s also worth noting that Cone is known throughout the world for their red caste denims, and that’s exactly what this denim is. If you want a piece of authentic 1950’s Americana, look no further.

xx710, Kurabo, Japan

Kurabo has been a favorite of mine since 1999. I even named one of my dogs Kurabo, that’s how much I love their denim ... true story. No matter that the dog was a Rhodesian Ridgeback, and wheat colored, not indigo. It made a lot of sense to me at the time. When I’m thinking about Kurabo, I’m usually thinking about their high quality, their consistency, the fact that they were the first of the Japanese mills to focus almost exclusively on denim weaving and indigo dying. So it’s no surprise that they’re pushing the boundaries a bit by introducing a very unique yarn from the Kapoc seed. Kapoc is a natural fibre obtained from the kapoc plant, and when combined with cotton at a 3:2 ratio, the weft yarns produced are strong, light, and extremely soft/silken. It’s also got inherent warmth due to Kapoc’s natural thermal properties. Weighing in at 12.5 oz, this denim is ideal for Fall/Winter/Spring and it’s contents are 83% Cotton and 17% Kapoc. It’s dyed in a heavily saturated red caste indigo, which flares a bit green, so it looks very Japanese. The xx710 has an all-white barber pole selvedge ID. This denim is not to be missed.

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