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Denim Wall / December no.2


It's no secret by now that we have one of the largest denim collections in the world. The denim wall located in our NYC store showcases just a small sample of the some-800 denims that have passed through our Atelier. Below are 3 that we'd like to call out specifically this month. Denim descriptions are written by 3x1 Founder, Scott.

Cone Mills, White Oak Plant, Greensboro NC (USA)

Let’s talk about LHT (Left Hand Twills) … the idea here is that yarns are spun in the opposite direction, as is the weave, which produce a softer hand-feel than the traditional Right Hand Twist (RHT), and this selvedge indigo denim is no exception. Starting out rigid, it’s still the same starchy traditional feel you’d expect from a Cone 13.5 oz. denim, but over time is where the magic happens. Woven on Draper looms, and utilizing Cone’s super authentic red caste indigo dye range, this denim is as close as you can get to an old time, peached finish. The selvedge ID is a white with red broken dashes. I love it because we’re featuring LHT’s a lot this season, and I’m a sucker for something old that feels fresh and new again. We have 75 yards available. No upcharge.

Collect, Japan

A 13 oz. LHT (Left Hand Twill) from one of our favorite Japanese mills, Collect, and candidly, one of my favorite denims this season. The thing that makes this really unique is not just the fact that it’s a LHT, but that it’s also got a gorgeous khaki fill (weft yarn). The beauty of a khaki fill is that it darkens up the denim’s appearance and develops a rich, deeper tone with more and more wear. Like all LHT’s, the xx874 is going to get softer and softer with every wear and wash. Ultimately this jean will fell lighter than it seems, mainly because of the higher level of starch during production. The selvedge ID is traditional white with red dashes. We have 60 yards available. $125 upcharge.

Katsu, China

No, that wasn’t a typo. This is our first in a series of Chinese made selvedge denims by Katsu, which is a denim collection designed in collaboration with one of my favorite people (and denim mentor), Andrew Olah of Olah Inc. This 8.5 oz. selvedge denim is no only gorgeous, but a perfect light, three season denim (Spring, Summer, Fall). It’s 100% cotton and has the faintest greene caste when worn down. There’s minimal starch used after weaving, so the break in period is short and it’s comfortable from the first wear. This is the first of 5 Chinese denims we’ll be introducing. It’s taken a long time to find a mill capable of making the same high quality we expect from Japan, Italy, and the USA … a huge shout out to Andrew for making that a reality. The selvedge ID is solid white. We have 50 yards available. No upcharge.

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